ESSENTIAL OILS

Guide to uses and applications of Essential Oils

Essential oils have two distinct uses. Perfumery and Aromatherapy. The following information is designed to be informative in both fields...

In Aromatherapy, essential oils have safety guidelines. Before using any essential oil theraputically, the following advice should be noted...

HAZARDOUS OILS. Some essential oils are considered hazardous due to their high toxicity levels or ability to cause severe dermal irritation. In this context, the following oils should be avoided. Bitter Almond: Arnica: Boldo: Broom: Bucha: Calamus: Camphor (brown/yellow): Cassia: Cinnamon (bark): Costus: Deertongue: Elecamane: Fennel (bitter): Horseradish: Jaborandi: Melilotus: Mugwort: Mustard: Oregano: Pennyroyal: Pine (dwarf): Fue: Sage (common): Santolina: Sassafras: Savine: Savory: Tansy: Thuja: Thyme (red): Tonka: Wintergreen: Wormseed: Wormwood.

TOXIC OIL. Some oils should only be used in moderation, i.e. only in dilution and only for a short time, because of their moderate toxicity levels. In this contect the following oils should be used with adequate caution. Ajowan: Anise (star): Aniseed: Basil (exotic): Bay Laurel: Bay (west indian): Calamintha: Camphor (white): Cascarrilla bark: Cassie: Cedarwood (virginian): Cinnamon (leaf): Clove (bud): Coriander: Fennel (sweet): Hops: Hyssop: Nutmeg: Parsely: Pepper (black): Sage (spanish): Tagetes: Tarragon: Thyme (white): Tuberose: Turmeric: Turpentine: Valerian.

SENSITISATION. For some people, especially those with sensitive skin, even if using only as a perfume, the following oils may cause an allergic reaction. It is wise to 'patch test' these oils before using them. Basil (french): Bay Laurel: Benzoin: Cade: Cananga: Cedarwood (virginian): Chamomile (roman & german): Citronella: Garlic: Ginger: Hops: Jasmin: Lemon: Lemon Balm: Litsea Cubeba: Lovage: Mastic: Mint: Orange: Peru Balsam: Pine (scotch & longleaf): Styrax: Verbena: Violet: Yarrow: Ylang Ylang.

DERMAL SKIN IRRITATION. The following oils MAY irritate the skin, especially if used in high concentrations. Ajowan: Allspice: Aniseed: Basil (sweet): Black Pepper: Borneol: Cajeput: Caraway: Cerdarwood (virginian): Cinnamon (leaf): Clove (bud): Cornmint: Garlic: Ginger: Lemon: Parsley: Peppermint: Pine Needle: Thyme (white): Turmeric.

PHOTOTOXICITY. Some oils are phototoxic, i.e. they can cause skin pigmentation changes if exposed to direct sunlight. For this reason, the following oils should not be used even in dilution on the skin where the area might be exposed to sunlight. Anjelica (root): Bergamot (except begapten-free variety): Cumin: Ginger: Lemon: Lime: Lovage: Mandarin: Orange: Verbena.

PREGNANCY. The following oils should be avoided altogether during pregnancy. Ajowan: Angelica: Anise (star): Aniseed: Basil: Bay Laurel: Calamintha: Cedarwood (all): Celery Seed: Cinnamon (leaf): Citronella: Clove: Cumin: Fennel (sweet): Hyssop: Labdanum: Lovage: Marjoram: Myrrh: Nutmeg: Parsley: Snakeroot: Sage (spanish): Tarragon: Thyme (white). The following oils should be avoided during the first four months of pregnancy. Peppermint: Rose: Rosemary.

THE FOLLOWING GUIDE GIVES A SELECTION OF COMMON ESSENTIAL OILS AND THEIR THERAPUTIC USES.

Oil Type
Brief description of applications and uses.
Basil Chest infections, Digestive problems, Fever, Tired & Aching muscles, Gum & Mouth infections, Mental fatique, Jaundice, Head cold.
Benzoin Cold, Flu, Sore throat, Stimulates circulation, Cracked hands, Warming & Soothing, Depresion, Anxiety, Sadness, Urine flow.
Bergamot Cystitis, Vaginal itching, Tension, Anxiety, Depression, Fever, Insect repellant, Digestive problems, Cold sores, Shingles, Blisters.
Black Pepper Muscle aches & pains, Poor circulation, Chillblains, Sprains, Constipation, Colic, Colds, Flu, Infections, Catarrh, Heartburn, Nausea.
Cajeput Colds, Respiritory infections, Mucua build-up, Catarrh, Sinusitis, Sore & aching muscles, Oily skin, Spots, Insect bites, Viral infections.
Carrot Seed Jaundice, Liver disorders, Eczema, Wrinkled skin, Burns, Dry & mature skin conditions.
Cedarwood Bronchial infections, Urinary infections, Cystitis, Vaginal infections, Catarrh, Acne, Aphrodisiac, Stimulant, Tonic.
Chamomile Boils, Abscesses, Digestive system, Tension, Stress, Anxiety, Diarrhoea, Cistitis, PMT, Sprains, Arthritis, Dry, red & sore skin.
Citronella Insect repellent
Cinnamon Digestive problems, Stomach cramps, Menstrual cramps, Aphrodisiac, Aches & chills of flu, Concalescence, Joint pain.
Clary Sage Stress, Tension, Relaxing, Asthma, Migrain, Convalescence, Digestive cramps, Excess sweating, Sexual tension, Hiccoughs.
Clove Bud Toothache, Scabies, Ulcers, Wounds, Acne, Athlete's foot, Bruises, Burns, Insect repellent, Cuts, Diarrhoea, Bronchitis.
Cypress Piles, Oily skin, Excess perspiration, Insect repellent, Bleeding gums, Wounds, Varicose veins, Asthma, Menopause, Stress.
Eucalyptus Colds, Catarrh, Infectious illness, Burns, Shingles, Muscular aches & pains, Rheumatism, Cold sores, Insect repellent.
Fennel Gout, Arthritis, Alcohol poisoning, Nausea, Flatulence, Indigestion, Hiccoughs, Cellulitis, Menstrual cycle, Gum infections.
Frankincense Coughs, Bronchial catarrh, Asthma, Older skin, Wrinkles, Heavy periods, Emotionally calming, Anxiety, Bereavement.
Geranium Dry & oily skin, Menopause, PMT, Fluid retention, Cellulitis, Tonic, Jaundice, Sore throat, Ulcers, Skin allergies.
Ginger Rheumatism, Arthritis, Muscular pain, Fatigue, Colds, Flu, Diarrhoea, Catarrh, Morning sickness, Travel sickness.
Grapefruit Fluid retention, Cellulite, Getting rid of toxins, Oily skin, Acne, Fluid retention, Depression, Muscular aces & pains.
Jasmin Menstrual pain, labour pain, Post-natal depression, Prostate trouble , Sexual problems, Aphrodisiac, Sensitive skin, Lethargy.
Juniper Urine retention, Cystitis, Detoxification, Prostate trouble, Irregular periods, Acne, Convalescence, Appetite stimulant, Fleas on animals.
Lavender Colds, Coughs, Flu, Headache, Insomnia, Catarrh, Muscular pain, Rheumatism, Arthritis, menstrual pain, Skin conditions.
Lemon Reducing temperature, Bronchitis, Flu, Hlps stop bleeding, Gum tonic, Gout, Rheumatism, Digestive tonic, Dull skin.
Lemongrass Headaches, Tired & sweaty feet, Acne, Athletes foot, Perspiration, Poor circulation, Nervous exhaustion, Stress, Insect repellent.
Lime Acne, Anaemia, Brittle nails, Chillblains, Greasy skin, Spots, Varicose veins, Throat infections, Catarrh, Warts, Insect bites.
Litsea Cubeba Oily skin, Congested skin, Spots, Acne, Flatulence, Indigestion, High blood pressure, Nervous tension, Stress, Insect repellent.
Mandarin Acne, Oily & congested skin, Spots, Scars, Stretch marks, Fluid retention, Obesity, Insomnia, nervous tension, Hiccoughs.
Manuka Colds, Catarrh, Sinusitis, Sore throat, Spots, Cuts, Boils, Acne, Oily skin, Insect bites, Fleas on animals, Muscular pain, Allergic rashes.
Marjoram Chest infections, Asthma, Chilblains, Bruises, Arthritis, Lumbago Muscular aches, Colic, Constipation, PMS, Headache, Insomnia.
Melissa Allergies, Insect bites, Eczma, Asthma, Bronchitis, Coughs, Colic, Indigestion, Nausea, Menstrual problems, Anxiety, Shock.
Myrrh Chapped skin, Athletes foot, Eczma, mature complexions, Wrinkles, Wounds, Gum infections, Chest problems, Thrush, Colds.
Neroli Scars, Stretch marks, Thread veins, Wrinkles, Palpitations, Poor circulation, Spasm, Colic, Flatulence, Anxiety, PMT, Stress, Shock.
Niaouli Cystitis, Urinary infection, Minor wounds, Burns, Cuts, Boils, Acne, Chest infections.
Nutmeg Bacterial infection, Impotence, Neuralgia, Nervous fatigue, Flatulence, Nausea, Arthritis, Gout, Sluggish digestion.
Orange Helps in winter months, Gum infections, Mouth ulcers, Dull & oily skin, Water retention, Chills, Flu, Obesity, Palpitations.
Palmarosa Acne, Skin infections, Wrinkles, Skin moisturiser, Anorexia, Nervous conditions, Cell regeneration, Stress.
Patchouli Athletes foot, Acne, Dandruff, Dermatitis, Eczma, Oily skin, Sores, Wounds, Wrinkles, Frigidity, Nervous exhaustion, Stress.
Peppermint Ringworm, Scabies, Toothache, Dermatitis, Muscular pain, Palpitations, Catarrh, Head colds, Fainting, Headache, Mental fatigue.
Petitgrain Acne, Excessive perspiration, Greasy skin & hair, Dyspepsia, Flatulence, Convalescence, Insomnia, Stress, Nervous conditions.
Pine Cuts, Excessive perspiration, Scabies, Lice, Arthritis, Aches & pains, Asthma, Poor circulation, Sore throat, Sinusitis, Stress, Colds.
Rose Broken capillaries, Dry & sensitive skin, Wrinkles, Poor circulation, Asthma, Hay fever, Liver congestion, Impotence, Stress, Nausea.
Rosemary Dandruff, Greasy hair, Brain stimulant, Cold, Catarrh, Sinusitis, Cholesterol, Tonic for heart, liver & gallbladder, Stiff muscles, Gout.
Rosewood Cell regeneration, Depression, Stress, Bereavement, Frigidity, Aphrodisiac, Chronic fatigue, Glandular fever, Skin problems, Wounds.
Sage Overworked muscles, Sport injuries, Mouth infections. WARNING... TAKE CARE WITH THIS OIL.
Sandalwood Dry & cracked skin, greasy & chapped skin, Catarrh, Coughs, Nausea, Cystitis, Depression, Insomnia, Stress, Diarrhoea, Bronchitis.
Spearmint Congested skin, Acne, Dermatitis, Asthma, Bronchitis, Catarrh, Nausea, Sickness, Cold, Fever, Headache, Fatigue, Strain, Stress.
Tea Tree Abscess, Acne, Athlete's foot, Cold sores, Dandruff, Herpes, Insect bites, Asthma, Catarrh, Thrush, Chicken pox, Flu, Fever, Veruccae.
Thyme Absdess, Acne, Burns, Oily skin, Gum infections, Arthritis, Gout, Muscle pain, Sore throat, Cold, Chills, Insomnia, Headaches, Stress.
Vanilla Sensual aphrodisiac, Tension, Menstrual problems.
Verbena Digestive problems especially related to stress, Hangover, Insomnia, Anxiety, Stress, Tonic for nervous system, Liver congestion.
Vetivert Acne, Cuts, Oily skin, Wounds, Muscular aches, Rheumatism, Arthritis, Stiffness, Depression, Insomnia, Nervous tension, Stress.
Ylang Ylang Cramp, Constipation, Haemorrhoids, Indigestion, Hypertension, Varicose veins, Inflammation, Scars, Rashes, Thrombosis.

Essential oils have different methods of use, typically Baths, Inhalation, Compresses or Massage. An important property of essential oils is their ability to stimulate the emotions and this is especially powerful through inhalation, where particular aromas will stimulate areas of the brain, particularly (1) the Thalmus (responsible for perception and memories) and (2) the Hypothalamic Region (activates smell-related emotion and behaviour). As well as the effects that essential oils have in aromatherapy, their aromatic properties have long been used in Perfumery and the blending of essential oils to achieve pleasant and stimulating aromas has become a huge industry. Many of us like to use our own blends of essential oils to naturally scent our products and to avoid any 'chemicals' that may be present in commercially produced fragrances. As a broad guide, here are some useful suggestions...

ESSENTIAL OILS IN PERFUMERY.

Popular essential oils are often divided into 'Notes'. Below are some commonly used varieties...

Top
Middle
Base
Clary Sage
Black Pepper
Rose
Eucalyptus
Chamomile
Sandalwood
Lemongrass
Geranium
Frankincense
Petigrain
Juniper
 
Tea Tree
Lavender
 
 
Rosemary
 

In further exploring the characteristics of particular scents of essential oils we can further categorise them as either 'Fleeting' (high) or 'Steady' (low) with examples as follows..

Fleeting
Steady
Lemon
Clove
Grapefruit
Juniper Berry
Rose
Myrrh
Lime
Lavender
Tonka Bean
Vetivert
Petitgrain
Patchouli
Neroli
Cedarwood
Chamomile
Ylang Ylang
Tangerine
Vanilla
Sandalwood
Pine
Bergamot
Clary Sage
Rosewood
Jasmin
Orange
Basil
Geranium
Thyme
Frankincense
Nutmeg
Anise
Cassia
Lemongrass
Rosemary
Mint

When blending essential oils to bring familiar qualities to a 'scent', as well as 'notes' and 'characteristics' we can group scents into 'families' with examples below...

Woody
Evergreen
Green
Floral
Herbal
Fruity
Citrus
Sandalwood
Pine (all)
Basil
Carnation
Rosemary
Apple
Lemon
Cedar
Cucumber
Gardenia
Marjoram
Peach
Orange
Patchouli
Violet
Honeysuckle
Dill
Strawberry
Tangerine
Rosewood
Mimosa
Lavender
Tarragon
Apricot
Bergamot
Juniper Berry
Mimosa
Coriander
Black Currant
Grapefruit
Ylang Ylang
Juniper berry
Cherry
Lime
Hyacinth
Fennel
Verbena
Chamomile
Caraway Seed
Petitgrain
Lilac
Clary Sage
Jasmin
Rose
Muguet
Geranium
Apple Blossom
Lily
Iris
Jonquil

Whilst not all of the above are true essential oils, they are all botanicals with defined 'scents' and it is important to recognise which 'family' or 'families' a scent falls into.

BLENDS

To understand the 'scent' produced from blending different essential oils, here are some simple examples for you to try...

Essential Oil
Qty (in equal measures or drops)
Lavender
8
Palarosa
4
Vanilla
6
Essential Oil
Qty (in equal measures or drops)
Lavender
9
Patchouli
3
Vanilla
6
Essential Oil
Qty (in equal measures or drops)
Sandalwood
10
Patchouli
4
Lime
2
Clove
2
Essential Oil
Qty (in equal measures or drops)
Juniper Berry
6
Thyme (red)
5
Lavender
4
Rosemary
3

Need some Essential Oils? Click here to buy...

IMPORTANT... This guide has been prepared from a variety of information freely available from books and on the Internet. It is not intended as a comprehensive guide and does not infer advice. Some essential oils should be avoided during pregnancy and by sufferers of epilepsy. Users should always refer to comprehensive information available prior to use. Users should take steps to refer to safety information available. For many conditions above it is necessary to take medical advice and/or the help of a qualified aromatherapist. The Soap Kitchen can accept no liability for any problem or reaction whatsoever in connection with the use or mis-use of any or all of the above information.

BACK

HOME